„Nimm es nicht vom Spieß“ – Der Grund, warum ein Yakitori-Ladenbesitzer ernsthaft wütend ist

Whether or not to remove yakitori from the skewer often sparks debate at drinking parties. Some people want to take the meat off the skewer to share it with others, out of consideration, while others believe that biting directly into the skewer is “impolite.”

Amidst these discussions, a yakitori shop in Shimbashi, Tokyo, has issued a warning: “Every time you remove the meat from the skewer, the price goes up.” At first, this might seem like a joke, but it turns out the shop is serious. There’s a deeper reason for this rule.

“If You Want to Remove It, Go to a Yakiniku Restaurant”

“Please eat it without removing it from the skewer.”

When a plate of plump, juicy liver was brought to the table, the server reminded us again. On the wall of the restaurant, a poster read: “If you want to remove the meat from the skewer, go to a yakiniku restaurant!” Below the poster, there was a small note: “Every time you remove it from the skewer, the price goes up.”

The yakitori shop, “Shusse Sakaba Daitoryo,” is known for being particular with its rules. Despite this, on a Friday afternoon at around 4 PM, the shop was nearly full. As I bit into the liver, its rich umami spread across my mouth.

A week later, I visited the shop early in the morning to speak with the owner, Makoto Sawazaki (52), who was preparing for the day’s service. I wanted to know why he was so insistent on not letting customers remove the meat from the skewer. Sawazaki laughed and explained:

“We Want You to Be Impressed from the First Bite”

“Our yakitori is designed to captivate from the very first bite. Every yakitori shop skewers the meat differently; some places put large pieces of meat on the second bite. But here, we want you to think, ‘This is delicious!’ from the first bite. The skewers are like my own body – I’m a former athlete with a V-shaped build, and the skewers are designed to reflect that.”

Sawazaki takes pride in the yakitori he serves. He starts preparing it at 5 AM, and by 8:30 AM, his staff joins in to help. The preparations take until the early afternoon.

Sawazaki’s son, Arashi (27), who was helping in the kitchen, explained while cutting the meat into pieces of different sizes and laying them out in order: “The preparation before the skewering is crucial. If the meat is removed from the skewer, all of this effort is wasted.”

Once the meat is prepared, Sawazaki expertly threads it onto the skewers.

“The Size of the Meat Matters”

Sawazaki continued: “If the pieces are too small, the taste won’t be as good. I make sure each piece is big enough for a full bite.” The size of the meat, the order in which it’s threaded onto the skewer, and the grilling technique – every step is carefully calculated to ensure that the first bite will make you think, “This is delicious.”

The rule that “the price goes up every time you remove the meat from the skewer” is taken very seriously. Sawazaki said, “We put so much effort into preparing the yakitori. It’s frustrating when customers remove the meat from the skewer. If you don’t remove the meat, we’ll serve you the best cuts. We want to treat our good customers well.”

Sawazaki, who trained as a Japanese chef, opened the restaurant 15 years ago. The “No Removing Meat from Skewer” rule has been in place since the beginning. Over time, other rules have been added, such as “No solo diners,” “No leftovers (penalty of 1,000 yen per piece),” and “No customers who don’t drink.”

Strict Rules at “Shusse Sakaba Daitoryo”

At the entrance of “Shusse Sakaba Daitoryo,” a set of rules is posted, urging “first-time visitors” to read them carefully before entering.

Sawazaki explained, “When we say ‘No solo diners,’ it doesn’t mean we won’t accept groups of two or three. These days, restaurants have to choose their customers carefully. This is a place where you have to follow the rules. But for those who can follow the rules, it’s a very comfortable place.”

He added, “The no-leftovers rule is because we want people to appreciate the lives behind the food. When we serve food and drinks, we want our customers to think about the process and enjoy it to the fullest.”

The Growing Debate Over Etiquette

In terms of etiquette, Hiroko Nishide, a consultant who conducts corporate etiquette training and has authored several books on the subject, said, “The original style of yakitori is to serve it on the skewer and eat it that way. The basic rule is to eat it as it is served.”

She continued, “The most important thing about etiquette is considering the other person’s perspective. I’ve heard that yakitori chefs carefully season the meat and thread it onto the skewer in a specific way, sometimes making the first bite lighter and gradually increasing the seasoning. It’s best to eat it the way it’s served.”

Nishide pointed out that discussions around etiquette, such as whether to remove the meat from a skewer, whether it’s okay to put lemon on karaage, or whether to share salad, have been increasing in the media since around 2006. With the rise of social media, these debates have only become more heated. Nishide believes that these personal dilemmas spread through social networks.

The Key to Solving Etiquette Dilemmas

Nishide has a simple solution to these etiquette dilemmas: “Just ask.”

Whether it’s about removing the meat from the skewer, squeezing lemon on karaage, or sharing salad, these actions are done out of consideration for others. However, Nishide emphasizes, “If you do something because you think it’s the right thing, it’s self-centered. Etiquette is about thinking from the other person’s perspective. Everyone has different ways of doing things based on how they were raised, so it’s important to ask.”

She suggests that before eating, you should ask, “There’s not enough for everyone, should we take it off, or leave it as is?” It’s important to communicate, as there’s no right answer when it comes to etiquette – it depends on the people and the situation.

Nishide concludes, “If everyone at the table agrees to remove the meat, that’s the right thing to do in that moment. It’s better to ask than to silently get frustrated. This principle applies in business as well. You have to ask your boss, your subordinates, or your customers to know what they want. And when they ask, you should be grateful instead of saying, ‘Do whatever you want.’”

She encourages people to enjoy the holiday season, saying, “Drinking parties are an opportunity to understand each other better. Enjoy your food and drinks, and have a great time.”